Pearl Jewelry

What a pearl is

Pearls are the only gems grown by a living animal. A saltwater oyster or freshwater mussel coats an irritant in layer after layer of nacre, the same lustrous material that lines its shell. Natural pearls form by chance and are now extremely rare; cultured pearls start when a technician places a bead or a piece of tissue inside the mollusk, which then does the rest. According to GIA, cultured pearls account for the vast majority of pearls sold today. Every pearl in this collection is a real cultured pearl. Our pearl guide goes deeper.

Akoya and freshwater pearls

Akoya pearls, cultured mainly in Japan and China, are the classic round white pearl with a bright, mirror-like luster; they are what most people picture in a strand or a pair of studs. Freshwater pearls, cultured mostly in China in mussels, come in a wider range of shapes and soft colors, including white, gray and black, often at a gentler price. We also use tiny seed pearls in crosses and halos, a keshi hoop and one mabé stud. Each product page names the pearl type and size. Pearls are routinely bleached to even their color, a standard practice across the trade.

Pearl, the June birthstone

Pearl is a birthstone for June, alongside moonstone and alexandrite. GIA's anniversary list names pearls for the 3rd year and cultured pearls for the 30th. Pearls have long stood for purity and simplicity and were traditionally given as wedding gifts, which is why a pair of studs remains one of the most-given pieces of fine jewelry. Read about the June birthstones, see birthstones by month, or browse birthstone jewelry.

How to judge pearls

Luster comes first: a fine pearl reflects light sharply from its surface and seems to glow from within. Then look at surface (fewer blemishes is better), shape (perfectly round is rarest, though baroque shapes have their own charm), color and overtone, size, and how well pearls match in a pair. Akoya generally wins on luster and roundness; freshwater on value and variety. For studs, 6 to 7 mm reads classic, 4 to 5 mm is delicate, and anything larger makes a statement.

Caring for pearls

Pearls rate just 2.5 to 3 on the Mohs scale, softer than any other gem we sell, and they react to chemicals. Put pearls on last, after perfume, hair spray and makeup, and wipe them with a soft, damp cloth after wearing. Never use an ultrasonic or steam cleaner. Store them apart from other jewelry, which can scratch them, and never in a plastic bag. Pearl rings and bracelets meet the most wear, so take them off for washing up, the gym and the beach. See our Mohs hardness scale and jewelry cleaning guide.

How to choose pearl jewelry

For a first piece, choose studs: they go with everything and suit every age. Yellow gold gives pearls a warm, classic finish; white gold and platinum make them look cooler and more modern. A diamond halo or accent turns a stud into evening jewelry. Pearl rings and cuffs are lovely but need gentler wear, so they work best as occasion pieces. Rings are made to order in your size, so check the sizing guide before choosing one.

Pearl Jewelry at a glance